Just before Thom Browne S/S '09 mens' wear presentation during New York Fashion Week, at Exit Art, models in the 4 opening looks hang around backstage.

Anyone who calls Thom Browne's garments unwearable should actually look at the clothes and suits he sells at places like Bergdorf Goodman and Barney's New York. Why is it so hard to understand the odd and dramatic show pieces don't pop up on the sales floor at those places or, even, his flagship location?

That he's willing to invest in seemingly odd creations and push the boundaries of tailored possibilities (and taste), make him unique among men's wear designers in New York. He's one of the few with the literal and figurative balls (see below) to put a concept on the runway and ask for response. Part of the function of his showpieces is to push the limits with skirt plays,double trousers, all that odd stuff that draws criticism and media. It's such an important gesture that goes beyond updating classics for today.

For S/S '09 he takes tennis concept to the extreme with an exploration into the ceremony of a tennis match. And it's not just smash 'em down US Open style tennis, it's also finesse and spin shots mixed with really tricky serves.

Next to Thom Browne, the second most daring show among men's wear designers this season was... Maybe Teflar? There's much more preference by designers to show they can merchandize a tight collection. Bowne says a fashion show should be a show and entertain the audience, showing ideas as well as garments.