DESIGNER: Derek Lam

INSPIRATION: Ode to Summer

TOP LOOKS: Lam's prints were the stars of the show-in a few cases, literally: "Shooting star print" mini-halter dress, floral print dress, gold hologram sequin blouse and skirt, patterned micro-skirt ensemble--beaded to within an inch of its life

ACCESSORIES: Shoes, belts and bags were all by the Lam himself, and figured prominently as they are a growing part of his business. The shoes were boy-meets-girl -- elaborate strappy lace-ups and colorfully banded sandals.

Belts were wide, graphic, colorful, sometimes studded and worn at the waist -- really defining many of the "corset" silhouettes. Bags were heavy and substantial and came large and small -- all in a subdued leather palette.

The jewelry was Dean Harris for Derek Lam -- the most striking examples were star-shaped enamel earrings, in colors to match the 80's palette.

WHO WAS THERE: Rachel Zoe, Amanda Cutter-Brooks, Olivia Chantecaille

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Derek is one of New York's brightest talents. This season, the designer -- whose range is almost always within an American frame of reference -- went vaguely "Dynasty." With the hair and makeup, for sure anyway.

The girls wore turquoise and peach eye shadow and had some messy, very hair-sprayed up 'dos. The color palette felt similarly '80s, or maybe just Florida, with powdery turquoise, purple and deep blue. One editor called it "Golden Girls."

So much color is somewhat uncharacteristic for Lam, whose approach is often minimal. The shapes were still clean and strong -- there were almost always defined waists, and some extremely short hemlines.

A few of the look eschewed hems all together -- and the designer just showed briefs. Of the last series of Esther Williams-esque bodysuit looks, a flummoxed Stephanie Solomon from Bloomingdale's asked, "Are those dresses? Blouses?" And that's exactly the point.