Goth Light - The Good Girl's Guide to Gothic Beauty
Posted Oct 29th 2009 at 11:00AM by Courtney Dunlop (Subscribe to Courtney Dunlop's posts)
Filed under: Beauty, Makeup, Beauty How To
Dark Beauty: Gothic influence at Rodarte's Spring 2010 fashion show. Photo: Getty Images
So you may not bleed black.
But goth - or grown up goth - is a fall trend you want to dabble in.
The good news is that goth has grown up: Black nail polish, sun-deprived skin and blood-red lipstick are no longer reserved for moody teenagers and Hot Topic employees.
As we've seen on runways, celebrities and even (shock!) conservative politicians, the dark side of beauty is out in full force.
We chatted with celebrity makeup artist Fiona Stiles about how you can go goth without looking like Marilyn Manson gave you a makeover.
When it comes to dark makeup for the eyes, lips and nails, Stiles says, "You still have to feel pretty or else it will just be scary."
Here's how to do just that!
Goth Light: The Good Girls Guide to the Dark Side
Goth has grown up! Black nail polish, sun-deprived skin and blood-red lipstick are no longer reserved for moody teenagers and Hot Topic employees. As we've seen on runways, celebrities and even (shock!) conservative politicians, the dark side of beauty is out in full force.
We chatted with celebrity makeup artist Fiona Stiles [link: www.fionastiles.com] about how you can go goth without looking like Marilyn Manson gave you a makeover. When it comes to dark makeup for the eyes, lips and nails, Stiles says, "You still have to feel pretty or else it will just be scary." Here's how to do just that!
Rob Loud, Getty Images
Black-rimmed eyes are a goth staple (as are velvet capes, but we won't go there), and look just as hot with jeans and a t-shirt as they do with a cocktail dress. Just skip the freaky white-iris contact lenses and you're good to go.
When it comes to black and charcoal, "skip the eyeliner and keep it as a wash of powder shadow," explains Stiles. "Then it won't be so dense and heavy." She says to stick to shadows with a slight shimmer because matte looks too ghoulish. And if this is a look you want to frequent? "Have your colorist lighten your eyebrows just a tiny bit, especially if your brows are darker than your hair. It makes it all look less theatrical. That's how Jennifer Lopez can wear strong eye makeup -- if she didn't lighten her brows it would look crazy."
Try the trend:
Becca Eye Colour in Velvet, $24
Lancome Virtuose Mascara, $24.50
Courtesy of Becca, Lancome
An alternative to black eye shadow is a palette of somber but sexy forest green, mahogany and plum. Hey, if the Corpse Bride can pull off deep purple eye shadow, why can't you?
Fiona suggests using a small, domed eye shadow brush to softly blend color on the top lid and underneath the eye, "but you don't have to do the same color on top and bottom," she explains. Two of her favorite goth-nouveau color combos are eggplant/dark taupe and dark gray/light gray, keeping the darker color on top.
Try the trend:
Chanel Les Folies Noires, $60
Coutesy of Chanel
With lips it's a simple matter of choice. There's dark, film noir-esque burgundy, overripe berry a la the Twilight gang, ghostly purple or sheer, inky black.
Stiles says that if you're doing one of the bold eye looks you should stick with lighter, sheer lipsticks and glosses. Sheer berry is universally flattering, and she likes cool dark purple gloss. "It's a 'cold' color but still incredibly flattering. And it looks great on brunettes." Stiles warns that dark lipstick can be aging, "so find a nice maroon or purple and blot it down so it looks more like a stain." (Blood stained, perhaps?) You can also use a sheer black gloss over lipstick you already have to give it a gothic edge - or dab on bare lips if you're feeling bold.
Try the trend:
Clinique Black Honey Almost Lipstick, $14
MAC Tinted Lipglass in So This Season, $14 (only available until early November!)
Lipstick Queen Black Tie Optional Shine, $22
Nars Lipstick in Fast Ride, $24
Courtesy of Lipstick Queen, Clinique, Nars, MAC
When you're far too melancholy to face the outside world, your skin takes on a lovely shade of alabaster - not to mention all the wrinkles and sun damage you're preventing by forgoing the beach for an afternoon inside listening to Joy Division.
As tempting as it may be to let your moody eyes and lips do the emoting, Stiles says "don't skip blush, just make it subtle. The just-eye-and-lip look works for runway, but not real people." Pale skin channels a delicate Edwardian aristocrat but "you still want some life to it." Stick to blushes that add just a tiny bit of warmth without being too rosy or shimmery. "And if you are on the pale side," continues Stiles, "give skin some luminosity with a loose translucent powder. Nothing too shiny."
Try the trend:
Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder, $22
Philosophy The Supernatural Mineral Blush Duo in Hugs/Kisses, $25
Courtesy of Philosophy, Laura Mercier
Forget the sun-kissed highlights - Goth hair is dark and sultry. Bonus points if you create matte volume with powder like the Victorians (and Angelina circa 2000) used to do. But not too much or it will look costume-y.
Unless it's your natural color, super dark hair is a tough one to pull off. "If the color is too dark next to your skin it can wash you out, bringing focus to wrinkles or dark circles around the eyes," says Bumble and Bumble colorist Mercedes Mueller. Stick to warmer shades of auburn and chocolate if that's what suits your skin, but ask your colorist to keep it one rich allover hue.
Try the Trend:
Bumble and Bumble Black Hair Powder, $35
Davines Alchemic Shampoo in Chocolate
Courtesy of Davines and Bumble and Bumble
Remember when Angelina dressed like a witch and made out with her brother? And then she carried around a vial of Billy Bob Thornton's blood? We do!
This is an extreme nod to goth and would be a big, giant DON'T for pretty much anyone besides Angelina. Big black hair, winged eyeliner and her trademark matte lips -- a look not for the faint of heart.
David McNew, Getty Images
Hey look! It's Wednesday Addams! Christina Ricci was a poster child for angsty adolescence, and although we love her grown up glam look, part of us will always identify with her rebellious black hair, shun-the-sun pale skin and big, mournful gaze.
Dave Hogan, Getty Images
One of her first movie roles was in "Practical Magic," she dated Marilyn Manson and now plays the Queen of the Vampires on "True Blood." Goth overload!
Since this picture was taken Ms. Wood has colored her hair to a softer, less morbid shade: copper red. But we love this example of how dark hair and makeup can work on the red carpet. Notice her brows are lighter than her hair? Makes the entire look seem less harsh.
Scott Wintrow, Getty Images
It's so rare to see a celebrity take a risk with her makeup on the red carpet - especially when it's a tough shade to pull off like blackberry.
Rachel Weisz makes it work by pairing rich lipstick with clean skin. Feathery eyelashes and a pretty pink frock help make the overall look bold but not too bold.
Stephen Lovekin, Getty Images












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