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Donna Karan Opens the Doors to her Turks and Caicos Home in Architectural Digest

Lauren Goodman — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:00:00 EST

In the December issue of Architectural Digest, iconic American fashion designer Donna Karan opens the doors to her paradisaical getaway in Turks and Caicos. The multi-structure site, which is based on Begawan Giri, a five-star Balinese health resort, includes two guesthouses (one for each of her children), a sybaritic spa, a yoga pavilion, and a swimming pool lined with lava rock. Consider it her own brand of Zen.

In the cover story, which is out on stands now, the queen of sensual power dressing says that the strip of white sand beach where her estate now sits was a gift from Karan to her late husband, artist Stephen Weiss, for their 17th wedding anniversary.

Weiss passed away six months later; and between grief and two broken knees, completing the project took Karan some time-nine years in all.

Karan founded the Urban Zen foundation in his memory, which promotes the integration of Eastern healing into Western medicine. The boutiques of the same name, sell, amongst other things, overscale daybeds, tables, and bean bags, which are featured in the house. Karan's motto for her relaxed furniture is: "If you can't fall asleep on it, I don't want to know from it."

With the help of architect Cheong Yew Keon, Karan translated the Urban Zen aesthetic into 21st century holistic minimalism--the perfect setting for a yogi mogul and her stylish jersey-clad brood.

Read the full story here.

Donna Karan Opens the Doors to her Turks and Caicos Home in Architectural Digest originally appeared on StyleList on Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:00:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Organic by John Patrick

Lauren Goodman — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:30:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Runway Report

Welcome to the Greenhouse. Organic by John Patrick's Spring 2010 Collection. Photo:Lauren Goodman

DESIGNER: Organic by John Patrick

INSPIRATION: Krazy Kat Klub, a prohibition-era speakeasy in Washington D.C.

TOP LOOKS: Floral on floral-printed pants-suit; Seersucker shorts-suit; poufy leather skirt with oversize pearls, Shalom Harlow in drag

ACCESSORIES: Gumball-size pearl and hardware necklaces, a collaboration with Fenton/Fallon; rolled down thigh-high stockings and garters a la Krazy Kat; dark mulberry-colored lips

WHO WAS THERE: Shalom Harlow bartending in drag, Lauren Bush, Vogue's Tonne Goodman, and rising model Lindsey Wixson

WHAT WE THOUGHT: The speakeasy-themed presentation was all about "deep Bohemia" and vintage glamour. Wine-saturated lips and Veronica Lake ringlets set-off sweet florals, seersucker, pinstripes, bloomers, and leather. And, oh yeah, everything is organic or sustainable.

Runway Review - Organic by John Patrick originally appeared on StyleList on Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:30:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Richard Chai LOVE

Lauren Goodman — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:00:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Runway Report

Models in Richard Chai LOVE Spring 2010 Collection. Photo: Neilson Barnard, Getty Images

DESIGNER: Richard Chai LOVE

INSPIRATION: Menswear and Uniforms

TOP LOOKS: Plaid shorts-suit (which opened the show); photo-printed dresses with minimal Victorian ruffles; bottle-green anorak and slouchy quilted shorts; heavily embellished tulle vest and tank-mixed in with Chai's signature boyfriend-style separates

ACCESSORIES: Alexandre Birman for Richard Chai slouch bootie-wedges with thong toe-in mushroom brown and black

WHO WAS THERE: Fellow designer Phillip Lim, Karolina Kurkova

WHAT WE THOUGHT: The show marked the debut of Chai's contemporary-priced line, Richard Chai LOVE, "for the girls who has fallen in love with my guy." The designer hit all the right notes, clarifying his brand of downtown-girl-casual, and making it accessible to more of us. Every major retailer in town was checking out the perfectly slouched basics. Besides the pretty printed dresses, it was all menswear all the time-which suits his girl just fine.

Runway Review - Richard Chai LOVE originally appeared on StyleList on Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:00:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Tommy Hilfiger

Lauren Goodman — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 17:17:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

A model at Tommy Hilfiger's Spring 2010 Collection. Photo: Biasion Studio, Wireimage

DESIGNER: Tommy Hilfiger

INSPIRATION: The relaxed glamor of the Southern California boardwalk

TOP LOOKS: A flowing silk pale pink ensemble of jodhpurs, swing coat and blouse; Navy and white striped maillot (harking the return of the one-piece) and a white wool blazer; Long sleeve safari dress with gold grommets; Carmine silk jersey knotted gown; White one-shoulder drape silk jersey gown

ACCESSORIES: Edmundo Castillo for Tommy Hilfiger high-heel open-toe desert boots; Bright plastic rimmed sunglasses; Safari bags on long shoulder straps (the week's bag trend)

WHO WAS THERE: An entire chunk of front row was starlet-studded, which was why the paparazzi were concentrated in a swarm 15 feet-deep pre-show. When the sea of cameras cleared it was revealed that Taylor Swift (who was, reportedly, "not talking," but smiling aplenty), Penn Badgley, Naomi Watts, January Jones, Rosario Dawson, Emily Blunt, Mary Louise Parker were sitting runway side. Sarah Ferguson and Russell Simmons were seated right behind in the second row -- a perplexing and unflattering arrangement.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Tommy pulled out parachute-like silks in a SoCal palette and nautical stripes -- a preppy mainstay for Spring. The collection was crisp, youthful, American -- quintessentially Hilfiger. There were pops of "Less Than Zero"-esque '80s teenage glamor, namely in Vuarnet-like shades and pastel, shoulder padded suits.

It's a reliable label with an equally as reliable price point. With Hilfiger's flagship opening to much fanfare two hours before the show, retail reality must be very much on his mind. As for editorial buzz, that's what the front row is for.

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Tommy Hilfiger- Spring 2010

Tommy Hilfiger, Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2010

Biasion Studio, WireImage

Runway Review - Tommy Hilfiger originally appeared on StyleList on Fri, 18 Sep 2009 17:17:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Isaac Mizrahi

Lauren Goodman — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:02:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

Glitz and glamour ruled Mizrahi's runway. Photo: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Designer: Isaac Mizrahi

Inspiration: Fred Astaire, Anime, and "The Obstacle Course to Glamour"

Top Looks: The show was front loaded with divine day wear in the form of swishy skirted easy silk dresses, belted peak-lapel jackets and other sharply tailored separates in pale crocus colors. For a minute, it went in a "Valley of the Dolls" direction, with a psychedelic beaded paisley-print that showed up in shift dress on Vlada and high-waisted shorts.

Last came glorious evening wear. A sparkly-like-diamonds double-breasted loose fitting vest dress. A pink sparkle fitted sheath. A black strapless sparkle jumpsuit fit for Liza Minelli (there is always a touch of cabaret at Isaac). A white jacket ruffled on one lapel. And movie-star gowns in tulle and silk -- ruffled, poufed and hourglassed.

Accessories: Maximal earrings of the button and dangly spangly variety. Isaac enlisted the jewelry designers from Liz Claiborne (where he serves as Creative Director) to do jewelry for his namesake collection. The effort was fantastic. Krystle Carrington all the way.

The shoes definitely played a supporting role, bearing a stylistic resemblance sexy orthopedics, with belt like straps and even a little gold padlock. If the medical reference was subtle in the footwear, Mizrahi took it all the way with the molded plexi arm braces, that strapped on from finger to shoulder. It was very Helmut Newton -- but there really is a medical accessory trend going on out there.

Bags were numerous, which is unusual for Isaac. They were made of tan and black leather, and took the form of large chic shoulder bags (worn with gowns) or small structured hard cases, which looked like they held piccolos.

Who was there: Joy Bryant, Kathy Griffin, Iris Apfel, Lauren Dupont

What we thought: The so called "Astaire Case" set was perplexing (a literal stair case, raised platform, and oversized, cartoonish spotlights). And then there was the live jazz trio, The Bad Plus. Isaac loves theater, and as mentioned above, cabaret -- piano player, check.

Now cue drama! Karlie Kloss prances out, musical comedy-style, in a flat brimmed hat made of cardboard and a handkerchief hemmed dress -- and crosses the obstacle course-like stage. It starts raining in the middle of the runway, and a guy in black coveralls and a headset pops open an umbrella and escorts a few models through the shower.

There was so much going on, one had to force oneself to focus on the looks, which also had a lot going on. Like a lot. "Dynasty"-like proportions -- peaked shoulders, voluminously shaped fabric, massive jewelry -- but all done with a minimalist's palette. This restraint kept any kitsch at bay. And the whole affair was stunning. I was more than entertained; I loved every minute.

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Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Isaac Mizrahi, Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Isaac Mizrahi - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Runway Review - Isaac Mizrahi originally appeared on StyleList on Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:02:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Marchesa

Lauren Goodman — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:57:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

A total fashion fairytale. Photo: Theo Wargo, Getty Images

DESIGNER: Marchesa

INSPIRATION: "Madame Butterfly," Japanese tattooing, origami flowers

TOP LOOKS: Pale pink gown with black lace "tattoo;" Short princess corset dress with black feather skirt; Paper-cut-out strapless dress; Stark white origami flowers on black movie star dresses; hand-painted purple gown with tulle and origami flowers; Pale aqua and lavender silk gowns with sheer insets and "skin-embroidery"

ACCESSORIES: This season, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig launched bags -- clutches, appropriately, to go with their signature couture evening wear. The shoes were by Louboutin, and as impossibly high, torturous, and embellished as ever in metallic satin with beading. Hand painted tattoo tights were an unexpected highlight and kept looks from getting too confectionary.

WHO WAS THERE: Blake Lively, Becki Newton, Peaches Geldof, Katharine McPhee, Karolina Kurkova, Emmy Rossum, and Georgina's hubby, Harvey Weinstein

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Craig and Chapman always outdo themselves, and this season was no exception. Their fantastical designs are absolutely one-of-a-kind. The gravity defying design seems impossible, and the question I always find myself asking is, "How do these dresses travel?" But travel they do ... straight to once upon a time on the red carpet. The designers are gearing up for the Emmys this weekend. Which lucky stars will end up in one of these fairytale gowns is to be seen.

Runway Review - Marchesa originally appeared on StyleList on Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:57:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Oscar de la Renta

Lauren Goodman — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 18:05:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

What recession? Oscar de la Renta brought loads of glamor. Photo: Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

DESIGNER: Oscar de la Renta

INSPIRATION: Mr. de la Renta himself called it, "A wardrobe for the modern woman - fresh and feminine." We thought of if as "The Leisure Class goes Latin."

TOP LOOKS: The lush teal looks, namely a skinny safari suit on Iris and a knit dress and cardie on Katie; Broderie Anglaise (aka fabulous crochet) trimmed Safari suit; 3/4 length silk gazar Hyacinth dress with soft off-the-shoulder volume; Chantilly lace dresses in black and white -- which had a Spanish mantilla meets YSL's Le Smoking effect; Navy tulle and rhinestone encrusted deconstructed ballgown

ACCESSORIES: Platform sandals in snake and patent, with thin little straps; Uptown jewels like diamond tassel earrings and fancy turquoise, carnelian and diamond drop earrings; woven brim hats by Patricia Underwood

WHO WAS THERE: Zac Posen (for a continuing theme of designer on designer love this week), Graydon Carter and his wife, Anna Scott, Patrick Demarchelier, Italian Vogue's Carla Sozzani, and every other E.I.C. in town (Anna, Carine, etc.), Brad from the "Rachel Zoe Project," Coco Brandolini, Aerin Lauder, Renee Rockefeller and Craig McDean.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Oscar delivers the goods. Gorgeous clothes for women who live the good life and want to look beautiful and sumptuous doing it. There are edges here and there that update his woman season to season. For Spring, it's peridot, peach, hyacinth and teal -- all so super saturated they practically glow. Oscar used the peridot on corsets peaking out of a black and white printed ball gowns. Referencing his Latin roots, the designer went for it with Chantilly lace, making it into gowns, veils and headscarves, for the above-mentioned Mantilla-look. The red carpet is always on Oscar's mind and there were ballgowns (though, perhaps fewer than in a boom-economy). The designer curbed his prices last season, but this fashion royal never skimps on glamor.

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Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Oscar de la Renta , Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Oscar de la Renta - Spring 2010

Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images

Runway Review - Oscar de la Renta originally appeared on StyleList on Wed, 16 Sep 2009 18:05:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - J. Mendel

Lauren Goodman — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:02:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

Looking feminine this spring will be a cinch. Photo: J. Mendel

DESIGNER: J. Mendel

INSPIRATION: The biomorphic works of artists Tara Donovan and Noriko Ambe

TOP LOOKS: Taupe head to toe -- Shaved mink chubby, tank, and paillette skirt; Rusty peach party dress with gathered fabric flowers at waist and bust; Pale lavender chiffon gown with Grecian pleating and sheer panels at bust and on shoulders; Gold foil suits with Mies Van der Rohe-esque recessed seams

ACCESSORIES: Patent Christian Louboutins with needle thin heels and clear glass baubles; Mod-ish sculptural necklaces and bracelets in clear plastic -- made in- house and by Sequin

WHO WAS THERE: Dr. Lisa Airan, Jennifer Creel, Mary Alice Stephenson, Dalia Oberlander, Annie Churchill

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Gilles Mendel took artistic inspiration from Tara Donovan's show at the Armory, and created his own "sculptures out of light materials"--which describes clothes rather well, actually. Mendel "sculpted and molded," seamed and draped. And "hard fabrics became liquid" -- the Noriko Ambe touch. The results of this exploration were artful red carpet and cocktail dresses that were both over-the-top and restrained, plus form-fitting armor-like suits for lunching ladies. Mendel chose a palette of dusky colors from off-white, to taupe to dirty chartreuse, smoky lavender and rusty pink. And appropriately showed in a gallery.

Runway Review - J. Mendel originally appeared on StyleList on Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:02:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Max Azria

Lauren Goodman — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 19:45:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

You can't keep style in a cage. Or can you? Photo: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

DESIGNER: Max Azria

INSPIRATION: Organic elements, weightless volume and individualistic style

TOP LOOKS: White silk dress with open slashed sides, worn over black briefs; Dove grey loose-fitting suit with cropped pants; Taupe silk crepe cut-out dress; Gunmetal mesh cage skirt over over great silk sweater-dress; Black silk georgette gown with silver beads like stars on a night sky

ACCESSORIES: Heavy suede sandals

WHO WAS THERE: Mickey Rourke, Lucy Liu, Nastia Liukin (Olympian and face of Max Azria), Estelle, Katrina Bowden from 30 Rock, Kelly Rowland, Tinsley Mortimer, Hope Atherton

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Max and Lubox Azria went minimalist this season. The palette was entirely neutral -- nude, off-white, white, gray, taupe and black. Looks and lines were clean and linear with some occasional beading, most bewitchingly used in the evening looks.

There are great boyfriend separates and daywear in the collection -- all in sophisticated and understated fabrics. And there's plenty more for starlets on the red carpet. We suspect that the designers fell in love with Jil Sander's Spring 2009 fringe collection -- the slashed-side dresses and jackets and even tassel looks that started the show had more than a soupçon of that breathtaking season.

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Max Azria - Spring 2010

Max Azria, Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Max Azria - Spring 2010

Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

Runway Review - Max Azria originally appeared on StyleList on Tue, 15 Sep 2009 19:45:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Vera Wang

Lauren Goodman — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 17:51:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

Vera's romantic, deconstructed looks blew us away. Photo: Brad Barket, Getty Images

DESIGNER: Vera Wang

INSPIRATION: "Partying with Poiret"

TOP LOOKS: Knockout first exit -- silk tulle oversize tank dress with a beaded and pleated surface so dense, the model looked like a little black tulle lamb; hanging down were raw cut transparencies of the same black tulle, gracing knees and setting the romantic deconstructed tone for the rest of the show. The purple "poppy print" used in looks throughout the show. Skinny "rocker pants." Sequined dotted Poiret-style dress with iridescent paillette power shoulders

ACCESSORIES: Black leather platform sandals with thick straps that tied around the ankles. The rose's roses for Vera Wang shoes were stunning, but gave the girls a run for their money. Larger than life jewelry has become a Vera signature -- for Spring there were oversize paste necklaces that dripped down the back of dresses, bibs in chain and ribbon spilling down to the hips, and more paste clustered into massive neo-Edwardian medallions.

WHO WAS THERE: Top-level editors and buyers, packed into one small bright white room

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Vera showed a highly romantic collection in "Summer Black" with lots of "Summer Sheer." Her clothes are complicated and not intuitive in the ways they fit together. Although the designer made her name with chic and classic wedding dresses, she is actually a fashion intellectual in her ready-to-wear -- working with rich fabrics in bohemian constructions, lots of layering, complex hand-pleated surfaces, embellishments and raw finishes.

Her customer has an artist's soul, like Vera -- she is a little uptown and definitely eclectic. There is plenty to choose from this season for that just-slunk-into-the-Carlyle-in-this-old-thing look: Tank dresses, slouchy jackets, skinny pants, or maybe just a staggering statement necklace thrown over a too-big t-shirt and cardigan.

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Vera Wang - Spring 2010

Vera Wang , Spring 2010

Brad Barket, Getty Images

Vera Wang - Spring 2010

Runway Review - Vera Wang originally appeared on StyleList on Tue, 15 Sep 2009 17:51:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Julian Louie

Lauren Goodman — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:12:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Runway Report

Models at Julian Louie's Spring 2010 Collection. Photo: Courtesy of Julian Louie

DESIGNER: Julian Louie

INSPIRATION: Deserts, salt flats, sunset skies, gradations of light as in Gerhard Richter's Collages, Cy Twombly's photographs, Olafur Eliasson, and Monet's haystacks.

TOP LOOKS: Rusty-peach mini-fishtail skirt and and tank; Coral trompe l'oeil lapel jacket, silk chiffon skirt, and pegged pants; Nude salt-dyed hip-ruffled dress with sheer side-panels; Pale pink crepe vest, ruffled hip-skirt, and stretch tulle dress; Cream jacket and ultra-skinny pants , White Ultrasuede fishtail cocktail-dress with one white crystallized shoulder

ACCESSORIES: Painted white pumps that disappeared into the arctic white stage set

WHO WAS THERE: Fellow designer, Thom Browne, new Marie Claire staffer, Amanda Hearst, Opening Ceremony's Humberto Leon and Barneys' Julie Gilhart-do we smell a retail exclusive bidding war? Louie is definitely on fire. As if to mint the budding talent, Carine Roitfeld, French Vogue's Editor-and-Chief dropped in at the last minute.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Louie made a huge leap with his sophomore collection. First off, there were separates! Vests, skinny seamed and pleated pants, hip ruffled skirts, short jackets-all tailored to perfection. His signature architectural constructions were strong (and more refined than ever) but the silhouettes were softened with chiffon ruffles, draped silk crepe, ultra-suede--then spiked with crystals and sharply cut fabric embellishments.

Fitting with the desert inspiration, looks were monochrome, with a palette of just three colors-rusty peach/ coral, sawdust beige, pale pink and white. Just like his blindingly white stage set, Louie's future is bright.

Runway Review - Julian Louie originally appeared on StyleList on Tue, 15 Sep 2009 15:12:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Hervé Léger

Lauren Goodman — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 21:35:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

The newest take on a fashion favorite. Photo: Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Designer: Hervé Léger

Inspiration: The Desert

Top Looks: Indigo dyed and tied bandage dress, Shredded patchwork jean dress, Stiff denim oversize motorcycle jacket, Rope-corded bustier (yay Hervé separates!)

Accessories: Towering cork sandal booties

Who was there: Hilary Duff, Amanda Bynes, Leigh Lezark, and a full roster of socials, including Lauren Remington-Platt, Zani Gugelman, and Lydia Fenet -- all sporting the house's signature bandage dresses, of course.

What we thought: Hervé Léger owns the bandage dress, which puts designer Max Azria in a tight spot, so to speak, in terms of delivering something new every fashion week. Well, this season was not a problem. In a dusty palette and with distressed and textured fabrics, Azria made netted, knotted, knitted, bleached, patch-worked dresses and separates (breakthrough!) for girls who dress to kill. Stylist Camilla Nickerson's hand was evident in the fashion-warrior feel of the show. There was a fierce French vibe, with hints of both Givenchy and Balenciaga in the deconstructed surfaces and tight lean shapes.

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Herve Leger - Spring 2010

Herve Leger, Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Spring 2010 - Herve Leger

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Herve Leger Collection - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Runway Review - Hervé Léger originally appeared on StyleList on Sun, 13 Sep 2009 21:35:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Derek Lam

Lauren Goodman — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 16:22:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

Boca, Baby! Photo: Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

DESIGNER: Derek Lam

INSPIRATION: Ode to Summer

TOP LOOKS: Lam's prints were the stars of the show-in a few cases, literally: "Shooting star print" mini-halter dress, floral print dress, gold hologram sequin blouse and skirt, patterned micro-skirt ensemble--beaded to within an inch of its life

ACCESSORIES: Shoes, belts and bags were all by the Lam himself, and figured prominently as they are a growing part of his business. The shoes were boy-meets-girl -- elaborate strappy lace-ups and colorfully banded sandals.

Belts were wide, graphic, colorful, sometimes studded and worn at the waist -- really defining many of the "corset" silhouettes. Bags were heavy and substantial and came large and small -- all in a subdued leather palette.

The jewelry was Dean Harris for Derek Lam -- the most striking examples were star-shaped enamel earrings, in colors to match the 80's palette.

WHO WAS THERE: Rachel Zoe, Amanda Cutter-Brooks, Olivia Chantecaille

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Derek is one of New York's brightest talents. This season, the designer -- whose range is almost always within an American frame of reference -- went vaguely "Dynasty." With the hair and makeup, for sure anyway.

The girls wore turquoise and peach eye shadow and had some messy, very hair-sprayed up 'dos. The color palette felt similarly '80s, or maybe just Florida, with powdery turquoise, purple and deep blue. One editor called it "Golden Girls."

So much color is somewhat uncharacteristic for Lam, whose approach is often minimal. The shapes were still clean and strong -- there were almost always defined waists, and some extremely short hemlines.

A few of the look eschewed hems all together -- and the designer just showed briefs. Of the last series of Esther Williams-esque bodysuit looks, a flummoxed Stephanie Solomon from Bloomingdale's asked, "Are those dresses? Blouses?" And that's exactly the point.

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Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Click through to see the best looks from Derek Lam.

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Imaxtree.com

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Derek Lam - Spring 2010

Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for IMG

Runway Review - Derek Lam originally appeared on StyleList on Sun, 13 Sep 2009 16:22:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Costello Tagliapietra

Lauren Goodman — Sat, 12 Sep 2009 21:20:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Runway Report

Two looks from Costello Tagliapietra's Spring 2010 show. Photo: Imaxtree

DESIGNER: Costello Tagliapietra

INSPIRATION: Themselves and everything around them. The designers made "an effort to find the elegance and grace out of what felt like endless days of dreary weather... Even the prints this season came out of photos taken during this past rainy Spring."

TOP LOOKS: Spring-green short draped dress; buff high cowl top and matching wrap front skirt; a slate gray washed silk pleated dress that closed the show

ACCESSORIES: Shoes from Loeffler Randall's Resort 2010 collection, specifically platform ankle booties in luggage leather and patent snake, plus roll-cuff, lace-up flat booties that would have been right at home on Molly Ringwald in "Pretty in Pink."

WHO WAS THERE: Leigh Lezark and Geordan Nichol of the MisShapes; fellow designers, Phillip Crangi, Gaby Basora of Tucker, and Jessie Randall of Loeffler Randall

WHAT WE THOUGHT: C & T went back to the "DNA of our brand" and came out with what they do best: Draped dresses. The plaid-shirt and suspender-wearing duo stripped away all the bells and whistles and delivered pure elegance.

Runway Review - Costello Tagliapietra originally appeared on StyleList on Sat, 12 Sep 2009 21:20:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Ruffian

Lauren Goodman — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 18:42:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Best of the Season, Runway Report

The carpet matches the platforms at Ruffian. Photo: Imaxtree.com

DESIGNER: Ruffian

INSPIRATION: The Picasso exhibit, "Mosquteros," at the Gagosian Gallery

TOP LOOKS: Olive green linen trench over lamé slip, a trim black skirt suit with ruffle-sleeve bolero, hand-drawn and hand-embroidered "Picasso" dress which closed the show

ACCESSORIES: Louboutin did the shoes, per usual. The sandals were strappy and edged in black (as are Picasso's Mosqueteros) and have pink suede platforms (to match the pink carpeted catwalk).

Collaborating on jewelry a second season, designer Hervé Van der Straeten created necklaces using raw stones in the icy blues and pale pastels of the collection. The boys threw in an paillette-encrusted sailor hat based on Picasso's drawings -- which, if reshaped slightly, would make for a highly covetable clutch.

WHO WAS THERE: The usual coterie of friends and socialites... Ally Hilfiger, Annie Churchill, Antonia Thompson, Douglas Friedman and Derek Blasberg

WHAT WE THOUGHT: The erudite Ruffians exist in many time periods and their references are profuse and varied. Picasso-as-muse tipped Claude Morais' (one half of the the design duo) artistic hand. And the designer created a risqué silk line-drawn print of his chest, which ended up on skirts and separates.

This graphic naughtiness provided a punk-rock counter point to Spring/Summer 2010, which tended toward the lady-like side of the Ruffian girl -- especially in shapes with defined waists.

Runway Review - Ruffian originally appeared on StyleList on Fri, 11 Sep 2009 18:42:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Runway Review - Ports 1961

Lauren Goodman — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 20:30:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, Runway Report

Models strut the runway at Ports 1961. Photo: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG

DESIGNER: Ports 1961

INSPIRATION: Asiatica all the way

TOP LOOKS: Tie-dye silk harem pants; draped jersey knotted t-shirt dresses; a bandeau-top dress in pale gold silk; a bustled sheath doused with splashes of gold

ACCESSORIES: Architectural school-girl pumps and flats by Finnish designer Julia Lundsten

WHO WAS THERE: Ivanka Trump

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Designer Tia Cibani collaborated with Japanese print-maker Ritsuko Hiraji, interpreting "the ombré glow of coral skies at sunrise," and the other natural wonders. The collection had a soupcon of Chado Ralph Rucci in it--strong peaked shapes, stiff rich fabrics and lady-like undertones.

Runway Review - Ports 1961 originally appeared on StyleList on Thu, 10 Sep 2009 20:30:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Exclusive: Tucker Designer Gaby Basora on the Blouse That Launched a Brand

Lauren Goodman — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 20:30:00 EST

Filed under: News

Tucker designer Gaby Besora with her sons. Photo: Courtesy of Tucker

Perhaps you've heard of the label Tucker, but do you know the woman behind the brand? Meet designer Gaby Basora who has been making the bold patterned (but not boldly priced) separates for three years.

StyleList: How did you get your start?
Gaby Basora: I was a stylist, and like any stylist, would occasionally get things made for jobs and everyone loved the pieces. Especially, this one blouse. I wore it all the time. Friends started to ask if I would make them one and encouraged me to sell them.

A friend of mine who had a line of hair products at Barneys insisted I show this blouse to her contact. I showed up to the meeting with the sample blouse (which I had been wearing for ten days straight) and a piece of lined-paper with fabric swatches stapled to it -- they bought everything I had!

SL: What can a women expect from Tucker?
GB: Tucker is definitely spirited and a little bit whimsical. I am going to say courageous -- in that it's a lot of print. If you put something on and feel amazing in it, and it's something you would have never thought looked good on you, that's exciting.

Continue reading Exclusive: Tucker Designer Gaby Basora on the Blouse That Launched a Brand

Exclusive: Tucker Designer Gaby Basora on the Blouse That Launched a Brand originally appeared on StyleList on Mon, 24 Aug 2009 20:30:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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'The September Issue' Movie Screening - A Peek Under the Cover

Lauren Goodman — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 10:50:00 EST

Filed under: News

A color coordinated Anna Wintour and Renée Zellweger at "The September Issue" NYC screening. Photo: Getty Images

At last night's Vogue screening of "The September Issue" at the MoMA in New York City, aside from the obvious (read: Anna Wintour), designers and editors were the stars ... and okay, Renée Zellweger, too.

It was a small group ... a tight edit. My date? The talented designer Peter Som, and I joined the whirl of beautiful people.

Vaguely, in order of appearance, we saw Jack and Lazaro from Proenza Schoueler (Laz wearing shorts, I might add -- the two looked as if they were going on a hike), the hair impresario, Frederic Fekkai -- on crutches -- his wife Shirin Von Wulffin, Anna Wintour's daughter Bee Schaeffer and a slew of young designers including Zac Posen, Yigal Azrouel, Rodarte (or half at least), Vena Cava, Jason Wu and break-out film star, Thakoon Panichgul.

The movie was stupendous. The "ice queen" shows her wit and levity throughout the film. When an Italian journalist calls her as much, she replies with a smile, "Well, I hear it's very cold this week."

Continue reading 'The September Issue' Movie Screening - A Peek Under the Cover

'The September Issue' Movie Screening - A Peek Under the Cover originally appeared on StyleList on Thu, 20 Aug 2009 10:50:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Bulgari's New Serpenti Jewelry Collection

Lauren Goodman — Sat, 27 Jun 2009 17:15:00 EST

Filed under: Accessories, Fashion

A watch and ring from Bulgari's new Serpenti Collection. Photo courtesy of Bulgari

If you missed the celebrity-studded castle party that Bulgari threw in Rome last month to mark the brand's 125th anniversary, you can still get in on the action.

The iconic jewelry company -- favored by legendary actresses such as Ingrid Bergman and Elizabeth Taylor, among others -- presented its new Serpenti collection Thursday at its Fifth Avenue flagship in New York City.

The new sparkling assortment of accessories includes watches, bracelets and rings that slither (rather sensuously) around wrists and fingers in links of gold, pavé diamonds, onyx and mother of pearl.

The entry price for one of these precious creatures is a cool $4,000 (for a ring) and goes up to $85K for a pavé diamond and platinum watch.

The snake motif has adorned the limbs of beautiful women since the ancient Greeks (hello, Cleopatra!) and is traditionally believed to offer talisman-like powers to its wearer. Bulgari's initial foray into retail reptilia began in the 1940s when it designed snake's-head watches.

Bulgari's new Serpenti collection debuts in October, but by then will we all be ready for a shedding of skin?

Bulgari's New Serpenti Jewelry Collection originally appeared on StyleList on Sat, 27 Jun 2009 17:15:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Quick Hits...Louis Vuitton 2010 Cruise Collection

Lauren Goodman — Fri, 19 Jun 2009 17:20:00 EST

Filed under: Fashion, News, Best of the Season, Runway Report

A model in Louis Vuitton's 2010 Cruise collection. Photo courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton presented a sunny Cruise collection yesterday - transporting rain-soaked editors from the dreary streets of New York to the fabulous French Riviera. Continuing with the house's coquette theme from Fall (read: mini proportions in rich fabrics, with a healthy does of Lacroix and YSL references), LV's flamboyant party girl was still in tact. This time, she traversed the Côte d'Azur in micro-shorts, tiny tweed suits, a black patent trench and fisherman's hat, rope jewelry, and slouchy sequin open-toe pirate boots.

Accessories are the backbone of the house, and pumps decorated with leather rosettes were particular stand outs. They also introduced a monogram-print nylon bag. Fashion is all about legs right now-long and bare-and LV's designer, Marc Jacobs, has taken hemlines to new heights. Skirts were so abbreviated, one editor commented that the luxury brand must be saving money on fabric. But the press office assured me that in the stores, there will longer versions, for a less brazen customer.

Quick Hits...Louis Vuitton 2010 Cruise Collection originally appeared on StyleList on Fri, 19 Jun 2009 17:20:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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