It's sometimes hard to have loads of sympathy for fashion editors (jetting to shoots in fabulous locations, hanging out with designers, etc), but yesterday might make you want to pull out at least a couple violins. For many of Fashion Week's most influential attendees, the day began at Carolina Herrera's midtown show at 10 am and didn't end until the Marc Jacobs show finished at around 11:30 pm. Sure, they were treated to everything from sightings of Victoria Beckham in the front row to a performance by the Polyphonic Spree (both at Oscar de la Renta's gorgeous show), but yesterday sometimes felt more like an endurance meet than a preview of what we'll be wearing next spring.

To be honest, it's hard to imagine wearing a lot of yesterday's looks on a real life day of work, friends, public transportation and a stop at Starbucks. Marc Jacobs' always-highly-anticipated show last night was captivating with its undressed/dressed theme, but would you really wear most of these pieces even if you could afford them? Even Jill Stuart, whose clothes may not be fashionable with a capital F but usually bases her creations firmly in reality, showed an inaccessible collection of poufy mini-dresses which seemed aimed at anyone but the people who typically buy her clothes. And did we mention that many designers, like Nanette Lepore, have been showing shades of orange and yellow which clash with nearly every skintone?

Admittedly, there were some impressive (albeit conservative) shows yesterday from Herrera and de la Renta, both of which used a beautiful rich palette to make you want to start saving now to try and by even one of their pieces at the end of next summer's sales (even at 70% off, these clothes are reserved for the rich and/or famous, but they are great to look at and dream about.)

The most fun show of the day was Anna Sui's buoyant collection of bouncy dresses and separates which were influenced by a groovier 70's girl (someone like a 19 year old in the front row of a David Bowie concert in London circa Ziggy Stardust) than other designers have used for their inspiration this week. With flippy shorts and spunky puff-sleeved short dresses, the show was filled with pieces which would put you in a good mood as soon as you threw them on on a hot summer morning. Plus, this show gave its audience the sarkiest gift bag of the week so far: a bag filled with a fan, some cosmetics, and t-shirt featuring a print of an old-fashioned wanted poster with the faces of the two founders of the chain store Forever 21, who have been accused of copying Sui's designs.

Come back tomorrow for coverage of Monique Lhuillier, Betsey Johnson, and more!

Regular fashion week attendees have become accustomed to certain designers showing at the same day and time season after season. This time around, with the schedule altered and moved up for the Jewish holidays Wednesday night, that routine has been shaken up. Case in point: Michael Kors' show, which this season was held on a Sunday morning instead of in its usual weekday morning spot. "I actually think it's nice to show on a Sunday," Kors said backstage beforehand. "People aren't as crazed, they don't have to rush back to work or kill themselves in traffic-you can get around New York. Also I know a lot of people who have always wanted to bring their kids and husbands and they were never able to come. I love young faces in the audience, so I think it gives a happy mood to the festivities, and it's a happy show."

It was indeed a happy show, filled with the type of confident, comfortable pieces which make you feel good every time you put them on. It was a departure of sorts of Kors-lots of a classy shade of pale pink, some gauzy prints, and chiffon, none of which might initially sound Korsy-but the show just plain worked. "This is about color and-god forbid!-the word pretty," he explained. "We've never done anything like this before in 20 something years before, but I love the idea of all these prints. They're very impressionistic; it's playing around with Monet and the idea of these colors intermingled, which I think is more interesting sometimes than wearing a head to toe solid garment, which can get a little flat."

The positive mood of the show was infectious and almost tangible. "It's very optimistic," Kors said. "I'm a believer of when the world's in a tough place that fashion has to go upbeat. My job is to make people feel about themselves and look great. Clothes have to have a little bit of an entertainment value about them."

Also showing yesterday was Diane von Furstenberg, whose models got dressed under huge posters with photos circa the late seventies with shots of the designer as well as Angelica Huston and a young Manolo Blahnik. While so many designers have looked to the French Riviera for inspiration this season, von Furstenberg has drawn from holidays in French Polynesia to create pieces that seem easy to wear and perfect for 100% humidity. Some designers show creationss which seem earmarked just for celebrities and photo shoots, but these are real clothes for real working women who need lightweight, crisp looks to throw on to get to the office on a steamy summer day.

As he has for many seasons, Frederic Fekkai created the hair looks for the show. "I identify so well with Diane's sense of style and lifestyle," he said. "For the show, it's a reflection of the woman Diane embraces so much: she has strength and style; she loves life and she's successful."

The hair was simple and easy with a glossy finish (for which he used several products from his new Coiff line) and a low pony tail. "It's very clean, very healthy," he said. "It's ready for a tropical mood. It could be with jeans, a suit, with anything. It's so easy, sophisticated, and effortless-it gives the woman a lot of freedom, because it's a 1-2-3 hairstyle in the morning. It's for an independent woman who travels well and has it all."


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Saturday morning began with the Lacoste show, which this season marked the brand's 75th anniversary. It was just what you'd expect from this ubiquitous sportswear line: comfy but stylish pieces for men and women which pack a lot more weekend punch than just jeans and a tee. Designer Christophe Lemaire was inspired by the Pays Basque region of France, which gave the show a 20's resort feel. Lemaire fervently believes in the brand for which he designs. "There is a true originality in Lacoste," he said. "It's easy to wear but chic, sporty but elegant. It's timeless. I would say Lacoste is to sportswear what Chanel is to luxury."

Vacationing in France was the key influence of many of Saturday's shows. Alice Temperley's lovely collection of feminine pieces was dubbed La Plage Privee (the private beach.) Demi Moore and Duran Duran's Simon le Bon and Nick Rhodes were amongst those who watched the delicate ruffled and lace looks come down the runway.
The genesis of Catherine Malandrino's show, which included a standout textured dress in bright orange, was also a trip to her native France. "France is the place I get my inspiration," she explained backstage. "It was inspired by all the organic things and the lightness that you find there in the summer."

Rosa Cha's show of glitzy bathing suits also brought France to mind-in this case, the French Riviera in around 1972-but with their metal appliqués and detailing, don't try jumping in the pool with most of these pieces. To match the vibe of the clothes, MAC's Gordon Espinet created a similarly glamourpuss look. "When you think of 70's beauties, they were photographed by Francesco Scavullo: the Jerry Halls and Lauren Huttons of the world," he explained. "That woman is really glamorous and fully made up. It's sexy but not slutty, elegant but not untouchable. It's really about swimwear as fashion."


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The last of Saturday's shows was a highlight of the entire week so far: Ralph Lauren's 40th Anniversary collection, held all the way uptown on 105th Street inside Central Park, with champagne and good cheer served up in generous amounts. It felt like one of those special New York nights you remember for ages, with no one complaining about heat or inconvenience. (Even fellow designers Vera Wang and Donna Karan turned out to show their support, alongside celebs like Sarah Jessica Parker and Dustin Hoffman.) The show didn't tread new ground for Lauren, but showcased what he does so brilliantly: crisp black and white pieces, equestrian inspired looks, an idealized but simply beautiful look at Americana. Nobody does this type of clothing better than Ralph Lauren, and this show reminded everyone of that, 40 years on.

Come back tomorrow for coverage of Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenberg, and more!

The French Riviera and the 1970's have been big influences so far this Fashion Week, but cartoon characters? "I was inspired by Charlie Brown's crazy zig-zag striped sweater," Issac Mizrahi said to explain the genesis of the party dress he created for one of Friday's runway shows. "I've always adored that garment. It has etched itself into my psyche indelibly."

That inspiration makes complete sense when you consider the dress was made for the Snoopy in Fashion show, a fun group show held in the Bryant Park Tents. Mizrahi, as well as designers like Betsey Johnson and Heatherette, created pieces for the show which will be auctioned on ebay starting on October 1, with proceeds going to Dress for Success. "I support Dress For Success because I think they help women get their lives back on track in a very simple way," Mizrahi said.

The dress was Mizrahi's only runway look this season: he's showing his collection this time around without the hoopla of a runway show. "I decided this season to create a little book with pictures of the collection," he explained. "For my customer right now it seems like a great tool. I like going my own way as a designer and a good way to enhance that is to think of each collection as a separate entity. This collection screamed for a photo shoot and screamed to be kept off the runway." If you're screaming to see it, go to www.isaacmizrahiny.com.

Backstage before the show, guests enjoyed a proper bartended bar and food courtesy of the Food Network. Elsewhere in the large backstage area, Heatherette's Traver Rains and Richie Rich were getting ready to show their creation, a Snoopy bridal gown made of small stuffed animals. "How can you say no to Snoopy," Rains smiled. "Our dress is a Heatherette conconction: we took little stuffed toys and sewed them together with rhinestones and sequins with a pouf skirt."

Who's their favorite Peanuts character? "I always liked Peppermint Patty the best," Rich said. "I thought she was the most scandalous. She was kind of mean on Marcy and I love that-it was cool."

Behnaz Serafpour's Spring 2008 collection was classy and sophisticated but wearable (as long as your pockets are deep enough to afford these high end pieces.) The show started with some burlappy looks (which brought to mind a somewhat organic theme to the show, for which invites were sent solely via email instead of on paper to conserve trees); Some pieces had a vintage feel, like mustard colored separates and a series of looks with coral flower details. It was clothing which was super-elegant but felt like it didn't try too hard-this is what the glamorous woman at the next table at lunch at the Four Seasons just threw on that morning. And somehow Serafpour managed to maintain some of her trademark elements, like delicate ribbon details, while feeling like she'd taken a major step forward.

The show's makeup, created by Lancome makeup artist Gucci Westman, was glamorous but wearable. "I was thinking Valley of the Dolls combined with a natural, sexy beauty," Westman said. "Everything is peach and coral with a glossy, light lip. I haven't done a glossy, light lip in a long time-I thought that would be nice. It's sexy.

Westman and Serafpour collaborate for the show every season. "I love working with her in terms of our communication," Westman says. "I feel like I always understand what she's going for. It feels like we have a good working chemistry. I always feel like when she says one thing, I know where to take it, which is really important when you're working with designers. The most important thing is that they feel like they're communicating their message."

A few hours later, J Mendel showed a super-sexy collection for Spring/Summer back in the tents. "This collection was very much inspired by the polished sexiness of the photography of Guy Bourdin," designer Gilles Mendel explained backstage. "There's a mix of the couture element that I always put into the collection-sophisticated and sleek-with in this case a lot more sexiness. It's a little more naughty."

How is he going to celebrate once the show is done? "I'm going to go home, take a hot bath, have a glass of champagne with very close friends of mind, and go to sleep," he said." "I'm so tired! I think I'm finally going to have a good night's sleep!"

Other designers showing on Friday included Tracy Reese (who showed many pieces which seemed just too heavy for spring, plus some cute print dresses), Chaiken (whose first show under a new design team was a bit drab, but had a nice Bianca Jaggeresque white pantsuit early in the show), Cynthia Rowley (whose palette of white, beige and blue underlined what the colors of the week have been), and Buckler (whose cheeky menswear always makes for a fun show.)

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The highlight of Friday night for the cool crowd was the party of Prada's Soho flagship. Sure, there was a launch event at the Just Cavalli store uptown which attracted Jennifer Lopez and Jessica Simpson, but the real fashion crowd was at Prada, listening to the Hours play, surrounded by custom-designed Damien Hirst wallpaper, with a gallery-worthy film show on one wall and big tubs of Peroni everywhere. There was no shortage of celebs-from the Olsen twins on down-but this felt like a real New York downtown event, with models and music industry folks and a big crowd of hipsters outside for hours. In other words, this party was worth every moment of exhaustion during Saturday's shows....

How does Demi Moore watch a fashion show? Wearing big dark sunglasses ala Anna Wintour-at least that's how she checked out the Miss Sixty show yesterday. Seated between actor Clive Owen, who she laughed and chatted with before the show began, and Hilary Swank, with whom she commented on a few of the looks on the runway, Moore attracted a predictably manic paparazzi crush when she arrived. Our favorite celebrity in that front row? Maggie Gyllenhaal, decidedly dressed down and wearing the ultimate non-Manolos: a pair of comfy Birkenstocks. Chances are none of those celebs will be seen wearing the show's nightclub-friendly looks anytime soon, but it was fun to see them at the show.

Much prettier was Lela Rose's early morning show in the Bryant Park tents. The collection was all about its details: chunky buttons on a beige dress, orange embroidery on a series of looks, layers on a middle blue skirt. These are clothes for real women: fashionable but not fashion-obsessed, appropriate and sweet but never clawing.

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Will Emily Mortimer be a front row staple at the shows this week? "No," she insisted last night at Glamour Magazine's Soho cocktail party to launch a line of charity t-shirts. "I went to the Marc Jacobs show last year and I thought I was going to be crushed! It was so terrifying getting in there-I thought I was going to have a panic attack. Tomorrow morning I'm going to Boston to finish a movie and avoid fashion week altogether. This is my last hurrah!"

Mortimer's stay in Boston, where she'll be for the next couple months, should be full of laughs: She'll be working on the Pink Panther II alongside comedians Steve Martin and John Cleese.

Mortimer came to the party in an elegant strapless brown dress with a jeweled belt detail. "I'm wearing a Marchesa dress," she explained. "They're one of the designers that have been chosen to sell t-shirts for the Malaria charity." T-shirts were also created by Peter Som, Thakoon, Erin Featherston, and Jonovich-Hawk for the charity, Malaria No More. Purchases of the shirts, which are available for a limited time on shopbop.com, help pay for anti-malaria bed nets for pregnant mothers and children in Africa.

Is Mortimer a big charity supporter? "I do, whenever I can," she said. "I have a couple that I'll go the extra mile for. In England, I'm very into penal reform-that's the thing I tend to give the most time and money to there. I want to get involved in a charity like that here, but I need to find out about it. Prisoners don't really have a voice-they're not the most easy people to give money or time to. I think it's a measure of civilization of how they well they treat their offenders."

"But this is too," she added. "Malaria is the biggest killer in the world, and kills more children under five than any other disease. It's completely avoidable if you protect yourself."

One thing which was unavoidable in the fashion world last night was the buzz for the other party of the evening: Van Cleef and Arpels' huge bash at the Hammerstein Ballroom. It was an unquestionably elegant affair: hundreds and hundreds of gussied up guests in black tie dresses, freely flowing champagne, and a venue which was transposed from its usual rock and roll grunginess to a fancy hall with cushiony dark benches. The focus of the night was an uber-limited edition collection of fine jewels, which were shown in a theatrical fashion show with models and dancers from the Lido in Paris. It was a memorable jewelry launch, but it left some guests wondering how a champagne hangover might effective their take on today's shows....

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Of course, there's as much glamour at the parties (and there are loads of them!) this week as there is on the runway. Even before Fashion Week officially starts tomorrow, there are a couple big bashes this evening: Van Cleef and Arpels is holding an extravaganza at Hammerstein Ballroom to celebrate Une Journee a Paris, its new collection of ultra-collectible (and pricey) fine jewels. Glamour Magazine is holding a party tonight night as well to launch the collection of charity t-shirts it has produced in conjunction with some of the hottest designers around (this season, including Thakoon, Peter Som, and more.) One of the hottest tickets in town is the Prada party on Friday night (where the band The Hours are playing); Henri Bendel is also celebrating its 100th anniversary during Fashion Week with a big bash. For coverage of Fashion Week's most fun and fabulous parties, be sure to check back here daily!

Another highly anticipated party this week is Ralph Lauren's 40th Anniversary party, which is being held on Saturday evening in Central Park's Conservatory Garden. Lauren's daughter Dylan, creator of the world's chicest shop for sweets (Dylan's Candy Bar), says it will be an exceptional soiree. "It's going to be a really elegant, big event," she explains. "For most designers, they throw a lot of parties, but my dad doesn't, so this is going to be special. I think it will be amazing."

Lauren may get to a couple shows this season, but her priority during Fashion Week is typically being there to support her dad. As a veteran of the shows, what advice does she offer to those of us schlepping to the shows? "Wear comfortable but nice shoes for walking back and forth," she advises. "And have candy to keep you energized."

Anything else? "Don't be on your BlackBerry during the shows," she declares. "I've seen tons of people doing that. It seems so weird: you should be looking up and appreciating the shows!" Unless, of course, your head is buried in our daily Fashion Week coverage-that's required reading whether you're sneaking a peak on your BlackBerry or sitting in front of your computer screen at home!

For true fashion addicts, it's hard not to get excited about the array of designers showing over the next several days. Established names like Carolina Herrera, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, and Diane von Furstenberg are always worth checking out. Newer names to have on your radar this season include Preen (a highly-touted design duo from England), Steinunn (a talented Icelandic knitwear designer who worked at Gucci and Calvin Klein before launching her own line), and Josh Goot (an Australian who is showing in New York for the third time and has built steady momentum for his crisp, wearable pieces.) At the Gen Art Fresh Faces in Fashion show this week, insiders are already touting Madison Harding (footwear designers) and Yarborough (who crafts chunky jewelry from bright colored yarn) as the event's standouts.

Another highly anticipated show is Chaiken, which has a new design team in place this season following the departure of creative director Jeff Mahshie. The company's founder and namesake, Julie Chaiken, says the collection she's showing on Friday will appeal to the confident, savvy women who have always been fans. "The women who gravitate towards the collection know who they are," she says. "It's about wearing what's right for them. It's self-expression rather than this whole world of people wearing something just because it's right for this season."

Nonetheless, her color palette does sounds very spring and summery. "The whole color story is Mediterranean," she explains. "When you think of the Mediterranean, you think of that gorgeous blue water. We're using that color with sand and white, and we're also doing a coral color and a yellow. You're going to see a lot more color and more prints." (Come back on Saturday for a review of the show, which is taking place on Friday.)

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It's that time of year again: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, when New York's style elite (along with plenty of wannabe-elite) descend on the Big Apple for a week of shows, parties, gift bags, celebrity sightings, haggling over seat assignments and, inevitably, extreme exhaustion.

If it seems like this season's shows, which are showcasing the looks of Spring/Summer 2008, are happening earlier than ever, well, they are: This month's schedule has been moved up a few days to accommodate the start of Rosh Hashanah at sundown on September 12th. The slightly-truncated schedule has left some insiders grumbling at some "can I clone myself" scheduling, with several instances of three shows happening simultaneously in different locations. As if to make matters worse, there has also been talk of a New York taxi strike during the first couple days of the shows. At least the weather forecast looks good, and there are still plenty of flats in the stores to wear to make running between the shows that much easier.

To bypass the week's crowded schedule, some designers, like Marie Marie, alice+olivia, and Rock and Republic, are opting for presentations of their clothes instead of a traditional runway show. In addition to being far less expensive to put on, presentations are typically held over a period of a couple hours, so it's easier for editors to pop in at their convenience between shows. Cocktails or snacks are often served at these presentations, which gives them an appealingly casual feel.

A couple weeks ago, there was a buzz in the city about a dearth of celebrities planning to turn out to this season's shows, due mostly to the two award shows (the MTV Video Music Awards and the Emmys) taking place over the next couple weekends. To the relief of celebrity watchers, any fears of a lack of star power are proving unfounded. Actresses like Maggie Gyllenhaal and Kate Bosworth are said to already be on rsvp lists, and it's certain that plenty of A-listers will be at shows like Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen just like in prior seasons. Even Yankee Alex Rodriguez is set to check out at least one show (Venezuelan designer Nicolas Felizola, who's showing his collection on September 5th.) And, of course, some celebrities, like Gwen Stefani, Jennifer Lopez, and even Paris' sister Nicky Hilton, have their own clothing lines, so chances are they (and some bold face friends and supporters) will be at those shows as well.

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As one third of 'Project Runway's judging panel, Nina Garcia has been a tough advocate for wearable womenswear, often ripping apart contestants' poorly executed designs with a blunt review -- on Season 2, she memorably told contestant Santino Rice his attempt at Heidi Klum-inspired lingerie was "not aesthetically pleasing" -- while reserving her hard-won praise for a small and select few. Without a body of design work to her credit a la co-judge Michael Kors or the supermodel qualifier of 'Runway' host, Klum, it's easy to wonder what gives Garcia the right to judge, but aside from the fact that the ELLE Magazine Fashion Director has spent more than a decade working with stylists and designers identifying runway trends women will actually want to wear, you'll be hard pressed to find the new mom and author of 'The Little Black Book of Style' looking any less than her best. We asked her how she does it.

With your position at ELLE, your 'Project Runway' taping schedule, and your newborn, how did you get this book done?!
Fashion plays an immense role in my life. Between my job as Fashion Director at ELLE and acting as judge on 'Project Runway', working on this book was really an extension of what I do everyday. Having a baby has definitely consumed a lot of my time, but fashion is a huge passion of mine and I am really excited to share my tips, experiences and knowledge.

What does 'The Little Black Book of Style' tell women that they can't read in ELLE or any other fashion magazine or book like Tim Gunn's 'A Guide to Quality, Taste and Style' for instance?
I know firsthand how overwhelming fashion can be so I really tried to teach the basics -- the fundamentals of fashion that every woman needs and wants to know. From a woman, editor and fashion-insider's perspective, it is truly Style 101. LBBS is not a heavy read and I made it this way so that people would be able to use it as a guide and reference it whenever they felt the need. It really encompasses basic tricks of the trade and is essentially the cliff notes of fashion so to speak.

Let's face it: even if you're a trendsetter, we all have times when looking quietly appropriate is the ultimate goal of getting dressed. At work, for example, many of us spend the day in offices where anything too flashy or distracting just won't cut it. For that environment, getting dressed in the morning often means choosing from a closet of basic, polished separates, then adding a seasonal accessory or two for a bit of quiet flair. If that's your business uniform, chances are there's one item you can't get enough of: the perfect pair of streamlined, flattering black pants.

Although it may not be a brand you've considered for a while, Liz Claiborne has some great trousers for this fall which may surprise you in both cut and quality. The company has recently revamped its line of pants to revolve around three key fits: Audra, Kylie, and Sloane. Once you've found the version which is most flattering on you (the best seller is Sloane, a slightly low-waisted flat front which may encourage your friends to ask if you've lost ten pounds), there are many styles of that cut to choose from, including of-the-moment wide legs and cute cropped sharkskins. And as you'd probably expect, these pants are affordable enough to buy in multiples, easy to care for, and available at most department stores (and online at www.lizclaiborne.com).

The pants represent the folks at Claiborne wisely looking at its customers and giving them efficiently stylish clothing which serves their needs. "We just want to offer women something better: something more fashionable than they'd be getting in the past," explains the company's creative director Richard Ostell. "It's much more designer and easy to put together. We're giving women appropriate fashion, but we're making sure it fits. It's like, '' I want to be appropriate: I don't want to look dowdy. '"

"It's all to do with feeling confident, accepted, and that your voice is going to be heard," he adds. If I feel that I look right and I feel that I'm dressed appropriately, then people are going to take me seriously and listen to what I have to say."

It's worth remembering that Liz Claiborne herself, who recently died over thirty years after founding her now-mammoth company, created her brand to dress people like herself: successful career women who didn't want to be stuck wearing styleless and stiff masculine clothes as they climbed the business ladder. Pretty cool that decades later the line still includes pieces to help you accomplish the same thing....

And if those trousers take you to the corner office, our choice of how to invest your first power paycheck would be a bag from the latest insider-favorite handbag designer, Jada Loveless. Loveless is creating exquisite alligator bags and clutches in vivid colors with semi-precious gem closures and gold vermeil hardware. She's got a real eye--the bags have a bit of a vintage inspiration but have a generous, modern silhouette--and the pieces are classic enough to become longterm investments. All of which helps justify their hefty price tags, which run a few thousand dollars for jewel-clasped clutch. Nonetheless, they are selling out at Jeffrey, which sells them exclusively in New York, so if you're looking for a more unique luxury statement bag than a Birkin or Kelly, they're definitely worth consideration. For more information, go to www.jadaloveless.com