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Tommy, Toledo, and Trends for Spring 2008

At the end of a week when some Fashion Week attendees have complained that the shows have been too safe, Anne Klein's second collection with Isabel Toledo at design helm couldn't have been more of a breath of fresh air. Toledo's clothes have their own standout esthetic; these are confident looks for women who don't need magazines or trendsetters who tell them what to wear. And just as those customers tend to be trailblazing professionals, this collection used modernized fabrics (like lacquered cotton and glazed silk) and flattering, fluid cuts to be focused, forward-thinking, and always feminine. Plus, although it wasn't an upbeat show per se, there's something about Toledo's sense of self in the midst of so many retail-driven collections which makes you want her to succeed. It just puts everyone in the good mood the way a great art exhibit does.

That mood was contagious and was felt backstage before the show as well as in the audience. "Isabel's an original," James Kaliardos, who created the makeup for the show using foundations and eye products from MAC, said. "She really is one of the few designers on earth that really do very original designs that aren't based on some nostalgia trip. She doesn't look through old Vogues and copy things. It's true design: she really creates from the pattern to the finished clothing. She channeling the spirit of Anne Klein but in her own way, which is the best way to come into a house like that."

Renowned hairstylist Orlando Pita, who worked on the show and has known Toledo since high school, agreed. "Isabel is extremely talented," he said. "It's always such a pleasure to work with people that no matter how commercial a side of fashion there is, there also needs to that element of good design and creativity. We're kind of losing that in fashion with people becoming designers more and more that aren't trained as designers-we must not lose the fashion and creativity side of what we do and Isabel is really strong at that."

Pita said the hair for the show was directly inspired by Toledo's designs. "It's very architectural and feminine minimalist," he said of the look. "It's very neat and then it gets into a drier texture in the back and we're putting extensions to make a blunt cut and the bottom. It looks very simple but it's a lot of work!"

It may sound contradictory, but the Tommy Hilfiger show which was held later yesterday didn't show much which looked new, but also made its audience feel good. With its crisp and wearable pieces in navy, white, and beige, these were clothes for average men and women instead of just the fashion crowd. It's worth noting that the show was held at Hammerstein Ballroom, where just a week earlier (although it certainly feels like ages ago after seeing a gazillion shows since) Van Cleef and Arpels held its massive fine jewelry event, which felt European and luxe. A week later in the light of day, Hilfiger's collection was packed with truly American looks for everyday, which after a week in Fashionistaville was a nice transition back to reality....


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Sunday in Bryant Park with Michael and Diane

Regular fashion week attendees have become accustomed to certain designers showing at the same day and time season after season. This time around, with the schedule altered and moved up for the Jewish holidays Wednesday night, that routine has been shaken up. Case in point: Michael Kors' show, which this season was held on a Sunday morning instead of in its usual weekday morning spot. "I actually think it's nice to show on a Sunday," Kors said backstage beforehand. "People aren't as crazed, they don't have to rush back to work or kill themselves in traffic-you can get around New York. Also I know a lot of people who have always wanted to bring their kids and husbands and they were never able to come. I love young faces in the audience, so I think it gives a happy mood to the festivities, and it's a happy show."

It was indeed a happy show, filled with the type of confident, comfortable pieces which make you feel good every time you put them on. It was a departure of sorts of Kors-lots of a classy shade of pale pink, some gauzy prints, and chiffon, none of which might initially sound Korsy-but the show just plain worked. "This is about color and-god forbid!-the word pretty," he explained. "We've never done anything like this before in 20 something years before, but I love the idea of all these prints. They're very impressionistic; it's playing around with Monet and the idea of these colors intermingled, which I think is more interesting sometimes than wearing a head to toe solid garment, which can get a little flat."

The positive mood of the show was infectious and almost tangible. "It's very optimistic," Kors said. "I'm a believer of when the world's in a tough place that fashion has to go upbeat. My job is to make people feel about themselves and look great. Clothes have to have a little bit of an entertainment value about them."

Also showing yesterday was Diane von Furstenberg, whose models got dressed under huge posters with photos circa the late seventies with shots of the designer as well as Angelica Huston and a young Manolo Blahnik. While so many designers have looked to the French Riviera for inspiration this season, von Furstenberg has drawn from holidays in French Polynesia to create pieces that seem easy to wear and perfect for 100% humidity. Some designers show creationss which seem earmarked just for celebrities and photo shoots, but these are real clothes for real working women who need lightweight, crisp looks to throw on to get to the office on a steamy summer day.

As he has for many seasons, Frederic Fekkai created the hair looks for the show. "I identify so well with Diane's sense of style and lifestyle," he said. "For the show, it's a reflection of the woman Diane embraces so much: she has strength and style; she loves life and she's successful."

The hair was simple and easy with a glossy finish (for which he used several products from his new Coiff line) and a low pony tail. "It's very clean, very healthy," he said. "It's ready for a tropical mood. It could be with jeans, a suit, with anything. It's so easy, sophisticated, and effortless-it gives the woman a lot of freedom, because it's a 1-2-3 hairstyle in the morning. It's for an independent woman who travels well and has it all."


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Fashion Week Had a Little LAMB, Page 2

Another show which left much of the audience wanting to wear everything which came down the runway was Adam Lippes' show at DIA Art Center in Chelsea. After three years of designing under the name adam+eve, Lippes has redubbed his collection simply Adam, and has continued to build on the positive momentum (and critical acclaim) of prior seasons by showing beautiful, effortless pieces which make you long for a summer weekend at a chic Hamptons beach house to wear them all.

With the name change, a recent induction into the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and his first boutique set to open next month in New York, it's been a big year for Lippes. "I feel almost like I've graduated," he said. "I started three years ago with t-shirts, which is an amazing part of my business and the foundation of my business, but I've grown it into a collection. This is what I always wanted to do: start with the perfect t-shirt and build a collection around it. It's been an evolution."

Lippes felt showing in the midst of New York's vital art gallery scene made sense for the collection, which included pieces inspired by artist Morris Louis. "I find that there are two things which inspire me: art and my friends," he explained. "I have a lot of great art memories from [former art space] DIA-it's just the perfect space to show the clothes: It's where the clothes might live."

The hair and makeup for the show worked in sync with the clothes. "It's very clean hair," explained renowned hairstylist Kevin Mancuso, who squeezed doing the show between his many clients at the Rita Hazan Salon and a shoot for Vogue. "It's contained with a braid, but it's done in a very soft way, so there's a little sacky feel to it. It's almost like the model carelessly did it herself, but with my hands. We've just come out of a period where hair was so rough and so over the top with volume, things have now become a lot less intentional. This has a bit of spontaneity to it."

The show's makeup, done by MAC's Romy Solemani, also shared the clothing's easy feel. "It's very much an American, fresh, gorgeous, sportswear kind of girl," she explained. "The collection's really beautiful; there are a lot of sorbet colors, so I tried to keep the makeup a little more neutral. We used caramelly, taupey colors all over: It's polished, but still fresh and chic."

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Fashion Week Had a Little LAMB, Page 3

Earlier in day, BCBG showed a just plain lovely collection of pretty dresses and silk organza pieces which would be the perfect to throw on after work to head out to a cocktail party or fancy dinner. Like the Kate Nash music which was the show's soundtrack, the looks were confident, modern, and spunky with a capital F. Just as feminine was Abaete's collection of dresses and beautifully crafted swimsuits, but its feel was straight out of a classic movie from the 1940's or 50's. Abaete designer Laura Poretsky is really hitting her stride...and, luckily for the budget-conscious amongst us, that applies to her line of shoes for Payless as well, which are unquestionably a bargain!

Alexandre Herchovitch, who's known for his uber-theatrical runway extravaganzas, also showed yesterday. His pieces were surprisingly wearable and often quite beautiful: They were unique takes on tuxedos and tuxedo dresses which would stand out (in a good, not outrageous, way) at any black tie function....

Rachel Ray also showed her collection yesterday, choosing to present the pieces at her showroom near the Bryant Park tents instead of mounting a full-fledged runway show. It was an ideal way to showcase her delicately crafted dresses and separates for ladylike ladies who lunch: metallic touches and painterly color details elevated the pieces to make them special instead of plain. The hair at the show, which was done by Frederic Fekkai Soho's Fabrice Gili, echoed the clothes. We've put in hair extensions," Gili said. "It has a lot of length and almost an Amazon look to it. We're going for a really clean look on the top with a lot of length and volume in the back. When we looked at all the clothes-the prints and the textures-we thought it would be nice to have a lot of length following the shape of the clothes. We didn't want a lot of volume on top, but the contrast follows the clothing's shape."

He said working with Roy is a pleasure. "She's lovely and has a lot of talent," he raves. "The clothes are very wearable and modern. There's no pretension-it's very real. I love the fabrics she used. And the prints are amazing!"

Come back tomorrow for coverage of shows by Miss Sixty, Badgley Mischka, and much more!

The New It Treatment For Fall Hair


Despite our best efforts to make it last forever, summer is on the wane and fall is right around the corner, bringing with it the new black, the new IT bag, the new must-have items. But now that it's time to start thinking fall wardrobe, you might want to think of updating your hair, too. The best place to start? Try the Malibu Treatment. Administered by master hairstylist Djuna Citrin, the Malibu Treatment is a must have if you want to get your hair in tip top shape for fall.

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Positively Beautiful -- Two Women Living with HIV Get a New Look (page 5)

"I always feel like a queen," Daisy (left) who has been positive since February 1995 says, "but that day, I felt like a princess."

>SEE MORE MAKEOVERS ON STYLELIST

>LEARN MORE ABOUT IRIS HOUSE

Positively Beautiful -- Two Women Living with HIV Get a New Look (page 4)

Both women had light makeup done with focus on evening out ttheir skin tones and making their eyes pop to complete their beauty transformations.

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Positively Beautiful -- Two Women Living with HIV Get a New Look (page 3)

Daisy's all-over gray hair made her look older, Christo says. "When you're African-American and you have chocolate skin color, you want to go warm... I used the corrective color to turn her hair a chocolate brown and bring out the shine of her skin." He also decided to give her low 'fro more shape and texture by twisting it.

"We used two of our products -- a gel combined with a dime-sized of pomade. The gel is to hold and the pomade is to shine," Christo explains. If you want to do it at home, separate your hair into small sections and twist from the back to the top of your head. Each twist should be about a fingertip in width. Any smaller and the twist won't hold, plus, you run the risk of exposing too much scalp.

Continue reading Positively Beautiful

Positively Beautiful -- Two Women Living with HIV Get a New Look (page 2)

"Noellia['s hair] had absolutely no shape so we cut it ... [so] it has a little layer to it," Christo explains. "We also fixed her color, added natural tone red highlights to her brown, blew her hair out with a medium round brush, positioned it, then added some Glow and Shine." Christo adds, "When you take lots of different drugs they tend to dry out the hair. The best thing is to condition, condition."

Continue Reading Positively Beautiful

Positively Beautiful -- Two Women Living with HIV Get a New Look

Daisy (left) and Noellia came to hairstylist Christo's salon for a head-to-toe makeover -- a prize they won as part of a contest held at Iris House. Iris House is an organization based in New York City that offers support services to and advocates for women living with HIV and AIDS as well as families impacted by the disease.

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Eve: From Ruff Ryder to Girly Girl

When Eve first hit the scene singing "What Y'all Niggaz Want" she was a self-described 'pitbull in a skirt' with a platinum baldie. These days, the rapper slash actress slash MAC spokes model has ditched the skirt for a belted oversized tee, sheer leggings and ankle boots. And her hair? See what she has to say about pieces and grease.



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Stylists to the Stars Need An Agent Too

In an industry that measures success by celebrity affiliation -- think Jessica Simpson's BFF and hair stylist Ken Paves -- and number of hours logged on photo shoots and film and tv sets, hair and makeup artists, wardrobe stylists, photographers, even manicurists need help getting their portfolios in front of the right editors and celebrity handlers. This kind of access takes relationships. Enter Ken Barboza.

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Cristophe insists "There is no bad hair"!


Celebrity hair stylist Cristophe has been chopping the locks of Hollywood's brightest and rock royalty longer than some of today's "it" models have even been able to walk, but time hasn't dimmed his trend-setting abilities. Even after years of experience, five salons (including his most famous in Beverly Hills) and a line of hair care products, Cristophe still insists, "There is no bad hair, only bad hair stylists."


Continue reading Cristophe insists "There is no bad hair"!

Face Your Hairs

Lots of women feel self-conscious speaking openly about this, but facial hair is a big problem for many women. If you've been quietly plucking stubborn chin hairs or bleaching your moustache in silence, I want to tell you about many more ways you can tackle the situation.

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This Week's Super New York Sales

This week, most of New York's chicest bargain hunters are focused on the weekend: More specifically, they're counting the days until Super Saturday, a jumbo-sized outdoor sample sale in the Hamptons which offers bargains from a huge selection of top designers (Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Bill Blass, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and many, many more) with proceeds going towards ovarian cancer research. Tickets to the event are already sold out, but Bluefly will have a selection of must-haves from the sale on Monday morning. We'll have a full report on the event (and its deals!) on Monday, but in the meantime, here are some other great sales to check out this week:


Lafco Sample Sale
July 25-27
161 Sixth Avenue
(212) 925-0001
www.lafcony.com

The name Lafco may not ring a bell, but its elegant downtown beauty boutique carries indulgent European brands like Claus Porto and Arte & Cuoio. Whether you need the perfect house gift for your weekend hosts or just something to add some glamor to the bathroom counter of your fourth floor walk-up, you're sure to find it there. And for the next couple days, Lafco is opening its warehouse up to the public to offer soaps, scented candles, lotion and much more at prices which are wholesale and below.


Peter Som Sample Sale
July 25-27
260 West 39th Street, 5th floor
(212) 221-5991
www.petersom.com

Peter Som's ladylike creations are a favorite of New York's most stylish socialites and party goers. Many selections from his spring/summer collection are available here at deeply discounted prices.

Orla Kiely Sample Sale
July 31-August 4
446 Broadway, 5th floor
(212) 643-4810
www.orlakiely.com

British designer Orla Kiely's fun and easy-to-wear bags are popular on both sides of the Atlantic. With their just-bold-enough prints and sturdy lamination, her creations are ideal for weekend and casual wear. This sale promises an extensive selection of her totes and handbags at 60% off.

Miss Sixty and Energie Sale

July 25-27
901 Broadway
(212) 575-0315
www.misssixty.com

Miss Sixty's spunky, sassy clothes are youthful and bold...and they're half-price for the next couple days at this large sale.

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