FALL 2009 FASHION WEEK - Backstage Beauty at Nicole Farhi
Filed under: Cosmetics, Fashion Week, Beauty Tips

SHOW: NICOLE FARHI
MAKEUP: VAL GARLAND FOR M.A.C
BEAUTY SNAPSHOT: Irreverent innocence -- an update on forties glamour
THE SCOOP: "The look is irreverent innocence, 1940's, beautiful dewy skin and a sinful mouth," says Garland, the lead makeup artist at the Farhi show. With the beautifully wearable, softly structured silhouettes, the wine-stained lips and warm, misty (not smoky) eyes just made sense. For a change, the models were not completely mattified, and let me tell you, a little moisture goes a long way for gorgeous looking skin. The look was ladylike and sexy-empowering. Strong brows were the perfect foil for all the rich fabrics and jewel tones. This was a show to inspire a head-to-toe fall makeover. GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: Garland blended M.A.C Pro Gloss in Copper Walnut from lid to brow, patted it across the eyes with her fingers and wrapped down around to the tops of the cheek bones. Then she created satiny skin with Moistureblend Foundation applied only where needed. M·A·C Pro Lipsticks in Dark Purple and Sin were pressed onto the lips with her fingers for a dark stain with hazy edges.


THE SCOOP: I can't help but think of art class when reporting on House of Holland's fall collection. On the other hand, if you look at the models from the neck up, you might feel as Lucia Pica did: "she's a polished sophisticated woman, a femme fatale." While the clothes were a straight-up homage to Pantone chips, the beauty was classically feminine. Pica gave us an unexpected jolt of deep burgundy on the lips and smoky eyes that were inspired by the 1920's. I guess this is the ultimate expression of Forrest Gump-fashion week is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get. 
THE SCOOP: There's nothing forgiving about skintight black leather pants, but they sure do look hot on models with impossibly skinny, long legs. Paired with body-skimming jackets and sky high Louboutins, London designer Todd Lynn's collection was certainly chic, if a bit grim in its austerity. Terry Barber's description of the makeup inspiration for the show followed suit: "Imagine Tilda Swinton in a remake of Mad Max but set in Siberia – ecclesiastic natural beauty." Though that reference is a bit obscure, it's not lost on me as I look at the models' pale, matte skin, peach-rimmed eyes and grey-tinged lips. Grey lips are an emerging trend we've been seeing at both NY and London Fashion Week. It'll be interesting to see it this trend continues, or if it makes it off the runways and on to our lips. 


THE SCOOP: "The collection is quite structured so I wanted the look to be a bit undone-that's why we've purposely smudged the lip a little bit. It's a true bright matt-ish red but patted on so you get this soft, sexy mouth," explains Joyce. With clothes that are black, white and gray all over, your eyes are immediately drawn to the blazing red lips. I guess that means nude lips won't be the only game in town come fall, which is great news for all the pale-skinned ladies. 
THE SCOOP: Since the Danish government furnished Jensen with a research trip to Greenland and the Faeroe Islands, the collection featured layers of schoolgirl clothes. There were tights, capes, knit hats, plaids, cross-stitch patterns and short skirts. And thanks to Murray's vision for the makeup, "inspired by pictures of inuits – it's that beautiful wind-burned flush low on the cheek – weathered but still very pretty," the look really comes together. Even the hair looks a bit mussed from the elements. Our prediction? If you like Anna Sui's flower child frocks, you'll love Peter Jensen's Scandinavian school uniforms.
You think you're the only one with an empty wallet? Think again. Designers Betsey Johnson, Donna Karan and Carmen Marc Valvo have all pulled out of 
In the wake of what many are calling 


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There was a general consensus last week that all of the models walking the runways under the Bryant Park tents looked considerably more healthy than last season. It was also noted that several models were actually turned away during New York Fashion Week for being too thin and unhealthy looking.



