PERSONAL STYLIST: Diane Da Costa Transforms One Woman With a Sassy New Cut

Ready for a Change

Tara Roberts came into my salon for a total makeover. She was celebrating her birthday and the publication of her book "What Your Mama Never Told You: True Stories About Sex & Love" -- and she wanted a fresh new look.

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Getting to the Root

She thought her dreadlocks were completely damaged, but after examing her scalp and checking the porocity and elasticity of her hair, I determined the damage wasn't as dramatic she thought. Her color had faded a bit and her locks were dry -- which is normal for color-treated hair.

Picking a Style

Tara told me she likes she to wear her hair big and wanted it to stand out so I let her know, based on my scalp and strand consultation, all the possibilities that would work well with her hair in terms of shape, color and cut. Tara decided she wanted to keep her natural hair but cut it into a funky bob with highlights and lowlights.

Off With Her Hair

I started by cutting off the length of her locks. I created the line where her hair would start, then created layers so she would have more volume.

A New Hue

To create dimensional color, I used three shades of brown. First, I separated Tara's hair into sections. Then I applied a chocolate brown shade to her hair from the temple area all the way down to the nape of her neck. Next, I applied a copper brown to the crown area of her locks. Finally, I created chunks of blond highlights in the front section of her hair.

True Colors

I used L'Oreal Professionel Maji Blond for the highlights and L'Oreal Professionel Luo Color on the rest of her hair.

Steaming Glad

Steaming is a gentler way to process color because it infuses moisture into the hair. So after applying the color, I put Tara under the steamer, for about 15 minutes. After the steamer, I shampooed her hair with L'Oreal Professionel LuoPost Shampoo. Finally, I massaged Tai Texture Botanical Oil into her scalp and throughout her hair before placing her under the steamer for a 20-minute conditioning treatment.

Hair Conditioning

It's important to condition locks with essential or botanical oils in addition to massaging your scalp regularly. Locks are particularly prone to becoming very dry because the hair that normally sheds when you brush or comb your hair does not fall from the shaft.

Here Comes the Grooming

To touch up Tara's locks, I started by spraying a leave-in conditioner to moisturize and soften her hair so it was easier to separate the locks. Then I separated her hair into four or five sections using a clip to keep each section out of the way. Beginning at the nape of her neck, I "palm-rolled" each individual lock. This is fairly easy to do at home. Just take the lock between your palms and roll it up the length of your palms. Then twist the root of the lock between your thumb and middle finger to tighten it up. Clip each finished lock out of the way.

The Trick to Twisting

Before you start grooming, apply a moisturizing pomade like Jane Carter Solution Twist & Lock all over your hair. This the trick to holding the locks and keeping them tightly groomed. Since you'll be twisting your hair for 30 to 60 minutes depending on how fast you are, spray Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing Leave-In Conditioner onto your hair throughout the locking process to prevent your locks from drying out.

A Clean Cut

After grooming her hair, I placed her under a hooded dryer to dry her locks. Then I shaped her hair, using shears and a feather raiser. I ended up cutting six inches total from her hair. She was amazed to feel her neck!

Change is Good

Tara left the salon wearing a sassy low-maintenance bob that falls at an angle to frame her face. The new color accentuates her skin's youthful glow.

Do You Want a Makeover?

This fall, I'll be giving a few lucky winners across the country hair-to-transformations as part of my American Beauty Tour. Find out how you can enter at www.ddabtour.com. Until then, you can find me at the Tai Texture/Serenity Salon in New York (212-598-1182).

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